I also have a V2.4 and it’s the most reliable printer I own. It’s the second printer I built and the third I’ve owned. And having built it from scratch, I know if anything breaks, I can fix it. I added an in-chamber carbon filter, a mod that let’s me probe the bed with the nozzle itself, and some custom designed magnetic attachments for the side panels. Oh and a kinematic bed mod – this let’s the bed expand with heat while keeping the center in the same spot.

It’s fantastic and I regularly print PLA, PETG, and ABS. I do like tinkering, but I will not touch this one because it’s such a reliable workhorse. The one last mod I would contemplate is a way to wipe the nozzle automatically.

2.4 owner chiming in. It’s a long build and you should probably skip the drag chains due to wire breaks. I am very happy with the printer and the community. Mods are readily available, the stock models are all open source so if you want to make your own mods it’s easy, etc. My printer is also extremely reliable - click print, walk away, come back to a completed print. You’ll need to do some klipper setup to get here, but it’s very achievable with some basic macros like Z Caliberation.

As for print volume, larger prints result in more warpage if you want to print in anything other than PLA. It’s all about chamber temps, but larger prints = larger printer = more surface area for your enclosure to lose heat. Big PETG prints needs an enclosure, but it doesn’t need to be that intense - I was fine with acrylic panels and even popped the top. Big ASA/ABS prints need an insulated enclosure, but I can now print large ASA things successfully. To go with your enclosure you’ll also need a method of actively hearing it. Bedfans, and under bed filtration, is how I dealt with this on my Voron. Since Vorons are designed for an enclosure, all the electronics are not inside the enclosure. I do not know if that’s the case for the Prusa.